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The size of a swell is determined by the strength of the wind and the length of its fetch and duration.

Because of this, surf tends to be larger and more prevalent on coastlines exposed to large expanses of ocean traversed by intense low pressure systems.

Another prominent form of surfing is body boarding, when a surfer rides a wave on a bodyboard, either lying on their belly, drop knee, or sometimes even standing up on a body board.

Other types of surfing include knee boarding, surf matting (riding inflatable mats), and using foils.

Waves are Left handed and Right Handed depending upon the breaking formation of the wave.

Waves are generally recognized by the surfaces over which they break.

For hundreds of years, surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture.

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The term surfing refers to the act of riding a wave, regardless of whether the wave is ridden with a board or without a board, and regardless of the stance used.

When he cut them in half to make them more manageable, he created the original "Long board", which made him the talk of the islands.

To the delight of visitors, Freeth exhibited his surfing skills twice a day in front of the Hotel Redondo. Swell is generated when wind blows consistently over a large area of open water, called the wind's fetch.

There, David Kawānanakoa, Edward Keliʻiahonui and Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole surfed the mouth of the San Lorenzo River on custom-shaped redwood boards, according to surf historians Kim Stoner and Geoff Dunn.

George Freeth (8 November 1883 – 7 April 1919) is often credited as being the "Father of Modern Surfing".

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